The Hudson

Summer View from My Front Stoop

From the Front Porch

7/5/09

All five of the homes I've lived in since I was 9 have been just a few blocks from the Hudson River — four apartments in the Spuyten Duyvil section of the Bronx from 1962 through 1987 and our house in Hastings-on-Hudson since then.

The river has been my muse, mistress and teacher. As I stand at my desk and write in the full bloom of this July morning, I can see just a brackish patch of it. That is sufficient. I know it the shoreline is a 10-minute walk away. Teeming. Saucy. Loyal. Humbling.

The spring of my tenth year, before I read Huck Finn, I got the idea of building a raft with a buddy and crossing the river to the beckoning Palisades. Our carpentry skills were as lacking as our access to materials; whatever collection of nails and boards we cobbled together never left the rocky banks off W. 232nd St. 

Since then, I've grown more cautious. I admire friends who blithely paddle kayaks diagonal to a channel that routinely carries tugs, barges and the occasional oil tanker that, I imagine, would swamp me in an instant if it didn't first slice cleanly through my saggital plane. Like finishing a novel, though, I know paddling across the river is a challenge I will meet someday. And surely I will chronicle it when I do.

When I first started taking photographs as a college student, I was, of course, drawn to the river. I think I know where those negatives are and will post some of those photos here. One of my favorite shots from that time is a black-and-white photograph of a sundown off Spuyten Duyvil dated 11/11/74. Three years later to the day, I married Deirdre Drohan, who was a professional news photographer. As she puts it, once we started going out with each other, "I stopped writing and Thom stopped taking photographs."

Well, we're not afraid to step on each others turf after 30 years and now that I've got a pocket digital camera, I find myself shooting a lot of the river. I will use this section of the site to try to bring some order to what I shoot.

I not written much about the river, perhaps because it's too elusive, but a recent poem and a seven-year-old reflection on the Rowley's Bridge Trail, which runs parallel to the Hudson in Hastings, follow the photo collections below. Neither piece is really about the river itself. They are about three adolescents who grew up in its shadow. Two of them died in or near it;  my daughter, fortunately, has thrived.

The River That Flow Both Ways

The River That Flow Both Ways

  The Hudson is actually tidal estuary north to Troy. Flowing south, it originates in the Adirondack mountains.  The Native Americans called it Muhheakantuck, "the river that flows both ways."

People

People

  It feels intrusive, but sometimes I can't resist.

Structures

Structures

  From the mid 19th century to the 1970s, the waterfront was alive with factories, most recently the Anaconda Wire & Cable Co., which closed in 1975. 

Ships

Ships

  Someone once said (I think it was me) that I've never seen a passing ship that I didn't want to photograph. Here are a few, with some boats and kayaks thrown in.

Of a Feather

Of a Feather

  If you know me half well, you've heard the story of my favorite pet of all time, Chatterbox the pigeon. 

Detritus, Flotsam, Jetsam, Graffiti

Detritus, Flotsam, Jetsam, Graffiti

  'll say this: Things are a lot better than they were when I was a kid and condoms lined the shore line. 

Sunsets

Sunsets

  I can't tell you how many spectacular sunsets I haven't photographed.

On the Shore

On the Shore

  The river leaves its mark on all it touches.

Upriver

Upriver

  Thanks mostly to my hiking mentor, Bruce Bolger, I recently got some sweeping new perspectives on the river.

The WInd Always Screams at Me Here

Rocky the garbage man
said there was no air
down by the river
and he waved his hand
across his face
as if he were shooing away
everything
that had ever oppressed him.

Then Rocky asked
how my team had done 
in the morning ball games,
taking an awkward uppercut
with his hands flying off
an imaginary bat handle.

Ricky observes a lot more
than he feels
he can articulate.

But Rocky was wrong this time.

I sat on the rocks on the promontory
facing south
and the wind came
as it always does 
when I'm here.

Always.
Whether the sun
dances on the muck at low tide 
like today,
or the ice is drained of hue
in February's gloom.

The wind is two voices:
Andrew's is behind me;
Kathy's is in front.

I've told them
I would not forget them
and I have not.

I've told them
I would tell their stories
and I have not.

Gulls shriek.
People chatter and drink beer.
Children dodge and squeal.
Andrew's and Kathy's voices
gnaw at the wind that contains them
but never emerge,
never syllabate
never make sense.

How could they make sense of it?
How could I make sense of it?

Andrew, 14, darting from behind
the brick switch house behind me
into the path of a morning train.
He didn't mean 
for it to happen,
a psychic said.

Kathy, 17, stopping her car
in the middle of the George Washington Bridge
I see before me, 
scrawling "I love you all" 
in the dirt of her windshield.
I don't think her body 
was ever found.

Their words are in the wind
passing through,
leaving us
tussled and 
transformed and
askew.

But I don't think,
now,
that those words will ever
break through 
their own frustrated sibilance
and articulate 
anything I can understand.

So, of course, I cannot tell your stories,
Andrew and Kathy.
But I still listen.
No matter how still the day has been,
the wind always screams at me here,
incoherently,
on these rocks
jutting into the river.

The Rowley's Bridge Trail

The Rowley's Bridge Trail is an amazing and magical place to be, so close to New York City that you could see the skyline if it weren't for all the trees. A brook wends though the ravine in the heart of the property, burbling at several small waterfalls. It then takes a precipitous drop down a bank, disappears into a culvert that runs under the track bed built by the Hudson River Railroad Co. in the 1840s, and empties into the Hudson at a point directly across from the highest point of the Palisades of New Jersey.

The sounds of chirping birds, rustling leaves and foraging animals are continually punctuated by the grunts and groans of mechanization. Cars rumble by on the stone Rowley Bridge, which has traversed the ravine since 1898. Planes on an east/west path to and from LaGuardia Airport, or the north/south route to Westchester County Airport, roar dully overhead, their engines sometimes screeching as they gather momentum or slow down. Helicopters hug the shoreline, while small planes cruise the middle of the river, propellers clopping on the air. Trains travel through all day, from the swoosh of commuter expresses to the rhythmic clacks of the freight cars that rumble through every night about 12:30 a.m., gently shaking houses like mine that are close to the riverbank. The river bears its own traffic, of course, from kayaks to tugs pushing barges to huge tankers, which can slip by with less fuss than the Jet-skis that seem to rip apart the twilight on evenings in the summer. You have to decide to listen to hear most of these sounds, however, because they have blended so seamlessly into our lives.

It is a summer day, I am perched on top of a humpbacked boulder that's about twenty-five feet off the 1,600-foot-long Rowley's Bridge Trail trail. It is about the size of an Airsteam, those timeless camping trailers made of riveted aluminum. My legs are crossed yogi-style, with the corners of my Macintosh Powerbook embedded into my calves at an angle so it will not slide away. I am integrating thoughts that I have had here in the past, and in other spots nearby, as I've gazed out on the Hudson, a tidal estuary that the indigenous Lenni Lenape called “the river that runs both ways.”

I've built a footpath to this boulder on Saturday mornings over the course of a year or so. It's up a steep slope, so I've fashioned crude steps out of a combination of flat rocks and railroad ties. The ties are secured in the front by slivers of discarded slate I scavenged from a masonry job at the Hastings Library, or by locust limbs I've sawed to two-foot lengths and hammered into the loose soil. To actually get on top of the boulder, I have to grab the trunk of a young maple tree that grows at its prow, which faces the Hudson. I hoist myself, pivoting on one foot and swinging around until I can lean on the tree for support from the other side. Then I twist again and take a few careful steps on the slanted surface, which is usually made slicker by pebbles that have tumbled down from the loose dirt on the hill that the boulder nestles in. It flattens out enough at its peak to allow me to sit. At this point, I'm about forty feet above the trail, which is due south. To the west, framed by overhanging limbs of cottonwood and maple trees and the lush canopy of summer grape that covers everything by mid-summer, are the gray, striated cliffs of the Palisades.

I was smitten by the boulder as soon as I saw it in the winter of 2001. I imagined that many others have been drawn to it during the 10,000 years or so that men and women have inhabited the east bank of the Hudson. I have found oyster shells in the soil surrounding the boulder and imagined Indians feasting. Perhaps squaws stood here watching their husbands and sons paddle out to Henry Hudson's Half Moon, which moored off Yonkers, just south of here. One day, I had a strong feeling that there was something beneath a pile of rocks that sat at the base of dead tree a few feet east of the boulder. As I dug, there seemed to be an unusual number of fist-sized rocks in the sandy soil, and I became obsessed by the feeling that someone had buried something there. I eventually unearthed what I believe is an ancient scraping tool. My thumb and index finger fit perfectly into two notches on either side of the crescent-shaped stone.

The person who fashioned this tool would be totally mystified by the world that has emerged around this boulder over the centuries, or millennia. But if he or she were somehow brought back to life, how long would it take before he found himself eating Big Macs, watching Access Hollywood, and speeding on the interstate with the rest of us?

Our industry, in the archaic sense of the word, is dedicated to making things easy, superficial, fast. But I wonder what wisdom we've lost as we anesthetize our senses and surround ourselves with all sorts of objects that separate us from the struggle to survive. Over time, a resurrected native might find it much easier to comprehend our world than we would his. It requires less effort, thought, and cunning of the life-or-death variety.

I was encouraged to undertake the step-building project off the Rowley's Bridge Trail by Dr. Fred Hubbard, a retired environmental consultant who volunteers as the village's naturalist. He subsequently dubbed it “Forbes' Folly.” I don't think the boulder itself is “Forbes' Folly”; it's not designated as such in the map of the trail and its environs that another resident produced under Fred's direction. I think Fred was probably just describing the process of building access to this piece of rubble left behind by a retreating Ice Age glacier about 18,000 years ago.

One morning when I was clearing brush near the top of Forbes Folly, a village trustee walked by. Looking up from the main trail, which terminates at the arched Rowley Bridge that carries Broadway over a deep ravine a few feet away, he commented favorably on my progress.

“Will the path lead to anywhere when it's done?” he called up to me.

It was an odd question. Clearly there was no anywhere else to go. I chalked it up to his being a fledgling politician.

“It is done,” I replied. “It leads to this rock.”

A few weeks later I repeated that conversation to my daughter, who I'd not seen for a while. I tried to imbue the exchange that I'd had with the trustee with some Zennish significance about destinations being exactly where your feet were standing at the moment.

My daughter had had some history with Forbes' Folly. One day the previous spring, she had worked with me on clearing the path to the summit. Mostly she dug at the edges of a 30-gallon drum filled with congealed gunk, oozing toxicity, that had been buried there years before. Because she was oblivious to any consequences — typically — I had to insist that she wear gloves and cover her arms as she worked. She used a spade to scrape at the outline of the barrel, picking deliberately as if she were extracting a dinosaur's mandible from the soil. I remember the sweat beading on her forehead. I admired her diligence. When she was younger, she would have given up in frustration after a few minutes.

As it turned out, she managed to get most of the job done before we had to leave. I'd hoped for months that she'd come back and finish the excavation, but she always had an excuse why she couldn't make it. Then she ran away from home. Eventually, with the sort of pang you get when you realize your daughter is wearing lip gloss and has forsaken her dolls forever, I took the barrel out myself.

Copyright © 2009 T.H. Forbes Co., all rights reserved. Contact Thom Forbes